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volvo s40 2000 transmission fluid change need instructions


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#1 maly

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Posted 25 December 2009 - 07:00 PM

Hi,

I just purchased a used 2000 Volvo s40. I need instructions for changing the transmission fluid on the vehicle as it has 200K miles. I am unable to remove the transmission fluid dip stick to check the level level as it seems to be stuck and unable to be pulled out of the dipstick retainer. Please advise if there is a special way of pulling out the dipstick as I do not wish to break anything by pulling it out improperly.

I was advised by the Volvo dealership service department not to change the transmission fluid "ever" at all or else "you might ruin the transmission of the car". I do not feel comfortable with that as the car has 200K miles and want to have it run for a longer period of time still. So I have decided nevertheless to go forward with changing the transmission fluid and filter on the car. .

Please advise if the vehicle require a special expensive fluid replacement or can I just use Dextron3 transmission fluid?

Does the vehicle have a transmission filter?

Does the transmission pan have a pan gasket or do I need to use a forma gasket material of some sort?

Please kindly assist me in this matter with step by step instructions possible?

I am on medical disability with very limited financial resources
to have someone do it or me or for me to go and buy another car should the transmission go or if I break or ruin something.

Please feel free to post your replies or email me at: malysmiech@yahoo.com.

Thank you for your time and assistance in this matter and hope that you have a great day.




#2 lyonsroar

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Posted 25 December 2009 - 07:57 PM

I deleted the double post.


If I remember correctly I had mine done at the dealership and it really wasn't too expensive. Definitely cheap enough that I wasn't going to bother with doing it myself.

However, here is a how to for doing it yourself:
http://s40concepts.n...msg&th=10506 p;am p;start=0&rid=2238&S=430de5877290a878c5ad3268b91fb08 a

"CASPER"
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#3 benisohh

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Posted 25 December 2009 - 11:13 PM

Yea the problem with trying to do it yourself is that you will NEVER get all of it, you'll have to flush, drive, flush, drive etc...

I paid 100 bucks at a tranny shop for a complete flush.
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#4 Carlos

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Posted 26 December 2009 - 04:42 AM

no transmission fluid filter in these cars or any fwd volvo
"Good work is not cheap, and cheap work is not good."

#5 jerrybarr

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Posted 26 December 2009 - 06:59 PM

If your 2000 Volvo has a 4 speed automatic trans, it uses Dexron III/Mercon ATF. The 2001 uses Mobil 3309 ATF. There was a great illustrated write up, but it uses Mobil 3309 which is wrong for the 2000.

The ATF dipstick should pull right out. If not, it must have been there a very long time and dried out. Try spraying some PB Blaster or WD 40 around the tube to free the dipstick.

You can do several drain and fills. That will eventually give you 90% new ATF. Good luck and Merry Christmas!


Jerry

#6 Volvo Steve

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Posted 31 December 2009 - 05:56 PM

Also, if you go by the How-To, the you need 1/2" clear tubing. For 2000, the hoses are different sizes.
2000 S40 - 145k Miles

#7 alschnertz

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Posted 03 January 2010 - 05:07 PM

jerrybarr wrote on Sat, 26 December 2009 10:59

If your 2000 Volvo has a 4 speed automatic trans, it uses Dexron III/Mercon ATF. The 2001 uses Mobil 3309 ATF.


Are you sure about this?
The owners manual for our '01 says Dexron III / Mercon.

I have seen other posts about the 3309, but those seem to have been for other models (not the Gen I S40).
Go easy on me! I'm new around here.
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#8 Carlos

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Posted 03 January 2010 - 05:29 PM

alschnertz wrote on Sun, 03 January 2010 11:07

jerrybarr wrote on Sat, 26 December 2009 10:59

If your 2000 Volvo has a 4 speed automatic trans, it uses Dexron III/Mercon ATF. The 2001 uses Mobil 3309 ATF.


Are you sure about this?
The owners manual for our '01 says Dexron III / Mercon.

I have seen other posts about the 3309, but those seem to have been for other models (not the Gen I S40).
Go easy on me! I'm new around here.


The manual for my 01 also calls out Dexron3/Mercon. Had been using pennzoil dexron 3/mercon since I purchased my S40 in 2000 without any issues. Even ran it up here (didn't do any drains or flushed since I moved up here in 2005, my own personal problem), but the dexron3/mercon performed excellent to tempuratures down to 20F!! (and I abused the hell out of the transmission on some of these icey hills!)
Back in February 2009 I switched to mobil 3309 because I couldn't find any place here locally that carried the dexron3/mercon that I always used back in Texas. Big mistake. The Mobil 3309 takes too long to warm up in cold weather. I finally found the pennzoil atf I was looking for at the safeway grocery store (seriously), I am switching back to the dexron3/mercon in the spring. This mobil 3309 is garbage, but that's just my opinion.


"Good work is not cheap, and cheap work is not good."

#9 PistonConfusIon

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Posted 03 January 2010 - 09:44 PM

Good to know. My owners manual specs Dexron III or Mercon as well. Vadis says volvo p/n 1161540-8, which is the 3309 spec ATF. When I asked the Ford/Volvo dealership at the beach (no dealership here locally) they said they used the Mobil 3309. If Dexron III has held up under your testing I would say that is endorsement enough!
Good work is not cheap, cheap work is not good, but paying a high labor rate is no guarantee of quality work. Ask me how I know.....
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#10 Volvo Steve

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Posted 08 January 2010 - 11:34 PM

You can also use Dex VI which has been back specked for Dex III applications. Dex VI at Walmart is under $4 a quart


2000 S40 - 145k Miles

#11 studum

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Posted 09 January 2010 - 01:14 AM

Kind of off topic but at the same time on topic, not intending to hi-jack. Carlos, you mention 3309 to take too long to heat up when cold. Would this cause odd shifting when cold?

When it's cold I get am odd shift almost always between 2-3 and sometime from 3-4. Feels like a slip, but only when cold. After a few blocks drives a-ok (like it did when I bought the car and when I first flushed it in the summer).

I really make an effort to take it easy on the car for the first bit regardless, but it's in the back of my head that something isn't right.

I keep telling myself it's an auto thing... as it's literally only during the first few blocks. This is my first car being auto since my very first car at the age of 16 so trying to get used to how it behaves and needs maintained...
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#12 Carlos

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Posted 09 January 2010 - 04:53 AM

studum wrote on Fri, 08 January 2010 19:14

Kind of off topic but at the same time on topic, not intending to hi-jack. Carlos, you mention 3309 to take too long to heat up when cold. Would this cause odd shifting when cold?

When it's cold I get am odd shift almost always between 2-3 and sometime from 3-4. Feels like a slip, but only when cold. After a few blocks drives a-ok (like it did when I bought the car and when I first flushed it in the summer).

I really make an effort to take it easy on the car for the first bit regardless, but it's in the back of my head that something isn't right.

I keep telling myself it's an auto thing... as it's literally only during the first few blocks. This is my first car being auto since my very first car at the age of 16 so trying to get used to how it behaves and needs maintained...


Funny you bring that up. I was having the same issue between 3-4 4-5.
Ever since I made space in the garage and have been keeping the car inside now I only have "strange?" shift from 4-5. Once it warms up it's great.
I'm waiting til spring because I want to be 100% sure my theory is correct, since moving the car indoors though i'm 99.9% sure it's the fluid and not the tranny.
"Good work is not cheap, and cheap work is not good."

#13 Kestas

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Posted 10 January 2010 - 10:04 PM

Transmission Fluid Exchange

For those interested, here's a generic fluid change method I use on all my cars that don't have a torque converter drain. Use your own shortcuts as deemed appropriate.

1. Pull the transmission dipstick. Fresh fluid is translucent and cherry red. Some darkening is normal, but if it is reddish brown or mustard color and smells like burnt varnish, it is worn out.

2. Make sure the fluid is warm.

3. Remove all pan bolts except for the corners. Remove the bolt from the lowest corner, then loosen the other corner bolts a turn or two. Carefully pry the pan to break the gasket seal at the lowest corner. Drain mostly from this corner. With good technique you can avoid or at least minimize the red bath.

4. Remove pan. Inspect the pan before cleaning. A small amount of fine grey clutch dust is normal. However, if you find metal shavings, there has been transmission damage. Remove all old gasket material. Some rubber gaskets are reusable. Clean the pan and magnet with solvent and wipe dry so there is no harmful residue. Shop air can be used to clean the magnet. Hammer back any pan damage from previous overtightening.

5. (Optional) Drill hole in pan at low point and install a drain kit available from most auto supply houses. Make sure the kit protruding inside the pan doesn't interfere with anything on the transmission.

6. Replace filter.

7. Position gasket on pan. Some gaskets have four holes slightly smaller than the rest to allow four bolts through the pan and through these smaller holes to hold the four bolts and gasket in place.

8. Hand tighten pan bolts in a criss-cross pattern. After that, use a torque wrench to tighten bolts to proper ft-lbs as per manufacturer.

9. Refill the transmission using only the amount shown as “refill capacity” in the owners manual (or an equal amount that was drained), using the type of fluid specified for the vehicle.

10. You now have replaced the trans fluid and filter according to manufacturer’s requirements. Fluid is changed in the pan only.

You can stop here and go to Step 17 if you just wanted a regular drop-the-pan fluid change. For a complete exchange of the fluid (including transmission body and torque converter) continue with the next steps.

11. Obtain the total system capacity of the vehicle from the manufacturer. Have this amount - plus a bit more - of fluid readily available.

12. Disconnect the oil cooler line from the oil cooler. Tickle the ignition to find the flow direction. Direct the stream of fluid toward a receptacle. It is better to use a clear length of hose with a shoplight laying next to it so you can see when all the old fluid has left the system.

13. Start the engine, let it idle to pump out old trans fluid until you start seeing air bubbles.

14. Stop the engine. Refill transmission through fill tube with fresh fluid - same amount as pumped out (usually about 2-3 quarts).

15. When either the fluid color brightens or the total capacity has been replaced, shut the engine off and re-attach the oil cooler line. All trans fluid has now been changed.

16. Button everything back up. Clean up the mess.

17. Recheck the fluid level. With the car on level ground, set the parking brake and the transmission in Park or Neutral. Let the engine idle for a few minutes. Shift the transmission through all detents, pausing momentarily at each position, before returning the lever to Park or Neutral. Check the fluid level again and check for leaks. Refill fluid so it is slightly undercharged. This way it can be properly checked and topped off after a long drive.
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