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questions about my 2000 s40 1.9t


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#1 Juhani.srd

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Posted 04 September 2011 - 08:13 PM

i posted this on the volvospeed forum, but i noticed this forum afterwards and figured i'd have better luck here. i'm an idiot, i posted in the wrong section... sorry. if a mod sees this, please move it if possible. (thanks mod)

first i'll tell a little of my story... i recently just got a 2000 s40. it's been in my family since it was brand new. another family member overheated the crap out of it, and basically destroyed the engine... it was so bad the engine covers melted to whatever parts of the engine they were touching. i installed a new (used 2001 1.9t) engine with 74k miles on the clock, and now the car works great, the car has 105k miles. so, now that i've taken care of all of its issues, i'm ready to have a little fun with it. this thing is going to stay a daily driver, i'm not looking to do anything nuts with it (maybe 20-40hp more).

and now on to the questions: and yes, i've searched all over for the answers to these questions.

what the hell does the gray key do? i have two black ones and one gray one...
how much power is the 12t turbo good for? i was looking for around 200ish whp if possible.
will this increased power level kill my perfectly working automatic transmission at an abnormally fast rate?
how much power is this engine good for (b4204t i think it is)? i saw someone on youtube with one of these engines that he said was stock that was making something like 400+whp. if its good for more than that, awesome. like i said i only want 200ish whp
and what years of s40's got those 16" mesh rims?

if someone actually knows something about these cars please chime in if my plan to get to that power level sounds bad. i'm not new to modifying cars (i have an e85 powered 2jz big single turbo supra that i built all myself also). i also resurrected the s40 myself, that included replacing the engine, and diagnosing/repairing its various electrical issues. so, i'd say i'm fairly mechanically inclined.

the plan:
hollow out both cats (i dont need to smog my car, and i dont care about them)
install a post cat o2 sensor spacer (to eliminate the check engine light)
install a manual boost controller
confirm the new boost level with a good boost gauge, and then remove it (i dont want any gauges other than the stock ones showing)
i was thinking 12psi or so should get me in the ballpark of where i want to be
switch to 91 octane (the highest thats readily available here), and my fuel injectors are about 420cc/min stock.

Edited by Juhani.srd, 05 September 2011 - 07:30 AM.

the stable:
2000 Volvo S40 (mbc @ 11psi, catless exhaust, apex'i intake)
1990 Toyota Supra Turbo (e85, 2jz, t88, 6pt cage, standalone, yada, yada)
1992 Toyota Pickup (other daily driver, ranch runner, parts runner)

#2 xcites40

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Posted 05 September 2011 - 02:32 AM

It is pushing limit to get 200whp out of stock 12t. You can get there with 14t no problem. Since you install a phase 2 lpt engine, the Max you can safely get is around 260bhp.

The gray key is for valet. You can install the boost gauge and put it in a discret location.

You can keep your transmission in top shape by flush the fluid every 40k miles. Iirc, one member got close to 200whp on 12t by 3" Turbo back no cat and other minor mod. Can't remember his boost level but I want to say 18psi?
11 XC60 T6 R-design (daughter ride)
07 Scion TC (wife's car)
04 S40 LSE B4204T4 Daily driven - Hybrid turbo club
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#3 Juhani.srd

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Posted 05 September 2011 - 07:29 AM

sweet, thanks for the info... yeah, i was thinking of installing a 14t turbo down the road. i just got the car all taken care of for now, so, i want to enjoy it for a little. so, is that phase 2 engine better or worse than what was in there? because for some reason before it got completely shitty gas mileage. now its getting somewhere around 30mpg on the freeway without a lot of boosting naturally. and at stock boost and keeping it in "3" and going uphill boosting constantly it would average about 25mpg still. i kept the phase 1 injectors in the car, and almost every other part was transferred from the dead engine to the new one. so, there's not much of a difference (electronically speaking). today i installed an apexi power intake, and brought the boost to 9psi with a MBC from about 6-7psi what it was at before. those two stupid little things made a pretty good improvement. i also got rid of that boost control solenoid. not to mention it actually sounds like its turbocharged now. i may keep it at this boost level for now. i think a 3" downpipe on this peanut turbo is pointless... a 2.5" max would be plenty for almost any of these turbos. i run a 4" on the supra, lol. ps: i'm glad to hear that the automatic transmission isnt a total piece of crap. i do occasionally brake boost at stop lights to smoke hondas =P

Edited by Juhani.srd, 05 September 2011 - 07:31 AM.

the stable:
2000 Volvo S40 (mbc @ 11psi, catless exhaust, apex'i intake)
1990 Toyota Supra Turbo (e85, 2jz, t88, 6pt cage, standalone, yada, yada)
1992 Toyota Pickup (other daily driver, ranch runner, parts runner)

#4 xcites40

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Posted 05 September 2011 - 01:54 PM

The phase 2 lot engine have thinner cylinder wall so they are weaker. The phase 1 have 4 spd transmission While phase 2 have 5 spd. Did you swap the transmission over? Could be the vvt help with the mileage. If you planning to increase boost, I would make sure you have the red top injectors from the new engine. Those are rated at 420cc.

3" Turbo back will help these car on top end even with tiny 14t Turbo, trust me.
11 XC60 T6 R-design (daughter ride)
07 Scion TC (wife's car)
04 S40 LSE B4204T4 Daily driven - Hybrid turbo club
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#5 Volvo Steve

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Posted 05 September 2011 - 02:24 PM

Instead of hollowing out the cats, just get a custom downpipe and exhaust. The flex tube going to the 2nd cat is ridiculous tiny and will make hollowing out the cats pointless.
2000 S40 - 145k Miles

#6 Juhani.srd

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Posted 05 September 2011 - 06:36 PM

View Postxcites40, on 05 September 2011 - 01:54 PM, said:

The phase 2 lot engine have thinner cylinder wall so they are weaker. The phase 1 have 4 spd transmission While phase 2 have 5 spd. Did you swap the transmission over? Could be the vvt help with the mileage. If you planning to increase boost, I would make sure you have the red top injectors from the new engine. Those are rated at 420cc.

3" Turbo back will help these car on top end even with tiny 14t Turbo, trust me.

sucks to hear that they cylinder walls on my new engine are thinner... i dont think the old engine is salvageable, it had like 30psi in cylinders 2 and 3 and pretty low compression on 1 and 4. i'm pretty sure its wasted. i did swap the red top injectors over because they were larger and had lower resistance (and therefore will open better at lower pulsewidths than the higher impedance slightly smaller blue injectors that came on the engine). i build fuel injectors for a living =). i built the 1400's on my supra, and they're balanced to within 1% of each other. maybe i'll buy some flanges and build a completely new turbo back exhaust. i have a spare evo 8 muffler laying around that i think would fit/look decent on the volvo. oh yeah, the transmission is the original one.

View PostVolvo Steve, on 05 September 2011 - 02:24 PM, said:

Instead of hollowing out the cats, just get a custom downpipe and exhaust. The flex tube going to the 2nd cat is ridiculous tiny and will make hollowing out the cats pointless.
yeah... i think you're right... time to break down and start sourcing parts for it then. stock sucks.
the stable:
2000 Volvo S40 (mbc @ 11psi, catless exhaust, apex'i intake)
1990 Toyota Supra Turbo (e85, 2jz, t88, 6pt cage, standalone, yada, yada)
1992 Toyota Pickup (other daily driver, ranch runner, parts runner)

#7 xcites40

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Posted 05 September 2011 - 07:17 PM

Btw post up some pictures of the mkiii. My brothers used to have 87 and 91 like 10 years ago.
11 XC60 T6 R-design (daughter ride)
07 Scion TC (wife's car)
04 S40 LSE B4204T4 Daily driven - Hybrid turbo club
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#8 Juhani.srd

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Posted 05 September 2011 - 11:36 PM

here are some pics of the mk3... i've been building it slowly over the last 1+ years. it started off as a full interior all show some go, 7mgte powered mk3. i'm looking to make it into more of a street/strip car. more for the drag strip than street though. its a stock 2jzge block and head, even the stock headgasket is in there. it does have 272 cams, stiffer valve springs, and titanium retainers. the head has never been off the engine, i'm shooting for around 700-750whp on e85.

most recent pics of the exterior... they're probably a week or two old. stock springs and struts are in the back to promote squatting/weight transfer so i can put the power down. which will never happen on the 275 street tires that are in the back in this pic.
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the ems i built for it
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most recent thing i've done to it (lq9 coils, converted to COP on my 2jzge)
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engine bay pic from yesterday... the covers arent on, because i'm troubleshooting an issue i've been having. and the engine bay will be repainted in the future, it had some crappy truck bed lining sprayed in there before i bought the car. and i hate it very much.
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Edited by Juhani.srd, 05 September 2011 - 11:40 PM.

the stable:
2000 Volvo S40 (mbc @ 11psi, catless exhaust, apex'i intake)
1990 Toyota Supra Turbo (e85, 2jz, t88, 6pt cage, standalone, yada, yada)
1992 Toyota Pickup (other daily driver, ranch runner, parts runner)

#9 Juhani.srd

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Posted 05 September 2011 - 11:38 PM

and a couple of the volvo stuff... afterall, this is a volvo forum!
here's the engine/transmission ready to drop in (which i must admit is a tight fit).
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and my new euro spec,jdm,usdm apexi intake... reminds me of when i first got into modding cars!
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and one of the flowbench i built from scratch to test anything about a fuel injector. it was very tricky to build...
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the stable:
2000 Volvo S40 (mbc @ 11psi, catless exhaust, apex'i intake)
1990 Toyota Supra Turbo (e85, 2jz, t88, 6pt cage, standalone, yada, yada)
1992 Toyota Pickup (other daily driver, ranch runner, parts runner)

#10 arrtchiu

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Posted 06 September 2011 - 11:32 PM

Wow, some nice work there!!

I think you have a lot of things in your favour here... expertise in EFI/EMS systems, not needing to worry about smog, injectors at your disposal...

As Xcites40 says, I agree the 14T would be perfect for the power level you're hoping for. Cheap and easy to install, make your own EMS or wire one up, sort out exhausts, tune, done!

You shouldn't have any problem with the transmission - if you didn't know already, the Euro T4s came with the 14T, 200bhp and the same transmission (if auto).

Is that EMS of your own creation or of MegaSquirt .. "flavour"?

Edited by arrtchiu, 06 September 2011 - 11:33 PM.

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#11 Juhani.srd

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 05:50 PM

yeah, i'm having another issue with the volvo. i cant get the boost past 8psi for some reason, i completely bypassed the solenoid, and there's just a manual boost controller between the compressor housing and the wastegate actuator. i can max out the controller, and the boost will not pass 8psi. i know the boost controller works too. so, i dont know what's going on there, i'll have to experiment more. the ems on the flow bench is your normal run of the mill ms2 v.3 board. attached to it is a modified jimstim, and with that combination i can test everything about a fuel injector with ease. the ems in the black case is a pretty decently modified diypnp, from diyautotune.com. i think i would indeed rather build an ems for the volvo instead of paying a tuner to flash its ecu. but, i'm not ready for that yet. i gutted the downpipe cat yesterday, and i'm going to replace the flex piece with a solid piece that matches the diameter on either side of it. i like the diameter of the stock pipe after that flex pipe, so, i'm just going to work off of that. i'll probably hollow out the second cat, and cut out the resonator, and the stock muffler. then i have a stock evo8 muffler i would like to put in its place, i'll have to test fit it, and see how it looks first. i dont want anything that looks/sounds too ridiculous. but i love the intake i made, that's going to stay for sure. here are some pics of the car and engine bay. ps: great info about the transaxle! makes me feel much better about keeping it there.

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the stable:
2000 Volvo S40 (mbc @ 11psi, catless exhaust, apex'i intake)
1990 Toyota Supra Turbo (e85, 2jz, t88, 6pt cage, standalone, yada, yada)
1992 Toyota Pickup (other daily driver, ranch runner, parts runner)

#12 xcites40

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 10:29 PM

check the wastegate setting. Might have to tighten it.
11 XC60 T6 R-design (daughter ride)
07 Scion TC (wife's car)
04 S40 LSE B4204T4 Daily driven - Hybrid turbo club
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#13 Juhani.srd

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 12:17 AM

yeah, i'm gonna check this tomorrow i think when i get back home. whats odd is, i've never adjusted it. and i didnt touch it at all when i transferred it to the new engine. oh well, all i know is not being able to go past 8psi sucks. i also get a check engine light every once in awhile (maybe once a week) for a code p0101, which i read up on is a maf code. basically meaning that the maf is operating outside of its set parameters or the maf is bad. i kinda doubt that its bad, since i never had a code for that in the past. one of the causes i read about that could possibly pertain to me is a vacuum leak. so, it looks like tomorrow i'll be pressurizing the whole system and checking it out. my mpg is still around 28-30 on the freeway, or about 25mpg if i'm doing "spirited" driving. i must say that if it does have a leak then that's amazing mileage to get with that problem.
the stable:
2000 Volvo S40 (mbc @ 11psi, catless exhaust, apex'i intake)
1990 Toyota Supra Turbo (e85, 2jz, t88, 6pt cage, standalone, yada, yada)
1992 Toyota Pickup (other daily driver, ranch runner, parts runner)

#14 Juhani.srd

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Posted 09 September 2011 - 01:47 AM

sorry to double post. but i made some progress on the volvo today. i found out that the blowoff valve vacuum line was disconnected, so, that was my vacuum leak. and then i found out the bov was leaking from that plate that bolts to the turbo. so, i fixed that and the vacuum line, and installed the boost controller and have that going into the boost solenoid. my boost now hits 11psi at its absolute peak, but its usually 9-10psi without flooring it. so, now i should stop getting those maf codes. in the near future i'm going to install a switch that will be right in front of the shifter where on my car are three switch blanks. then that will allow me to switch between stock boost or a higher boost set to whatever i want. now i just have to find a neat switch to mount in the shifter area that doesnt stand out too bad. also, i plan to add a boost gauge somewhere it won't stand out too badly. but now, its time for me to build my supra a new wiring harness. ps: @ 11psi this car is actually a blast to drive now, its not even like i'm driving a car that gets 30mpg. and i weighed it with 1/2 a tank in it, with a full interior/spare/etc + misc crap including a 20cf welding tank. it tipped the scales at 2940lbs, awesome.

Edited by Juhani.srd, 09 September 2011 - 03:21 AM.

the stable:
2000 Volvo S40 (mbc @ 11psi, catless exhaust, apex'i intake)
1990 Toyota Supra Turbo (e85, 2jz, t88, 6pt cage, standalone, yada, yada)
1992 Toyota Pickup (other daily driver, ranch runner, parts runner)